# 8 The Maharaja of Jodhpur

I have to admit, I'm a little in awe of Indian royalty. To me, they are living reminders of India’s illustrious past and exciting future. My first glimpse of royalty was at Rambagh Palace in Jaipur. I spotted the Maharani of Jaipur, who, along with her humanitarian and political accomplishments, was a stunning beauty in her day. At 87 years old, she was still statuesque and regal in her sky blue sari.

Last week I had the honor of meeting and interviewing the Maharaja of Jodhpur right here in Seattle. Maharaja Gaj Singh II was here to speak at the Seattle Asian Art Museum's Garden & Cosmos exhibition featuring more than 50 paintings originally from the royal collection. Chosen from more than 3,000 pieces, these little known but magnificent works of art from the 17th to the 19th century vividly depict the celebrations and pleasures of palace life, rituals of the gods, and portrayals of the cosmos.

The exhibit of primarily miniature paintings speaks volumes in all of its minute detail and vibrant color. "People have gotten into the spirit of the pictures. They conjure up the whole of India, its philosophy and art," said the Maharaja of the exhibit. Seattle is indeed lucky to host this exhibit and it wouldn't have happened without the direct involvement of the Maharaja.

While the Maharaja's background would allow him the option of resting on his laurels, he has, in fact, done the extreme opposite. His work includes preserving and promoting the arts and culture of India, maintaining and opening heritage properties and monuments to the public, work in areas of social responsibility such as empowering women through education and special projects, rehabilitating military personnel, water conservation efforts, and much more.

The Maharaja's lack of pretense and eagerness to share his ancestral link to India's culture and traditions was refreshing. During a tour of the artworks the Maharaja pointed out a detail in one painting, that of Man Singh's Coronation on January 19, 1804. In the piece, the ceremonial marble platform at the Mehrangarh Fort is the exact same one where the Maharaja himself was annointed at the tender age of four years old after the untimely death of his father. I asked the Maharaja if he remembered much of the historic moment. "I remember all the men. I had never been around so many men before," he said.

Later in the week I attended a lecture by the Maharaja. To a packed hall, he explained how the influence of his ancestors inspired him to lead through the changing times of the maharajas, especially during the "de-recognition" of the role of royal families. He saw then, and still sees his responsibility to the people. "A maharaja rules and pleases. My destiny has bound me to my heritage and the people of Jodhpur." This is evident through his works.

Maharaja Gaj Singh is one of the billions of reasons to visit India. It's clear he cares passionately about all that is precious in his country and has worked hard to maintain for future generations of residents and visitors alike. "There is so much we need to preserve and protect," said the Maharaja.

For more on the Maharaja of Jodhpur

# 7 Turbans

I was waiting at the airport in Delhi for some friends. The flight was late, the wait was long. I sat on a staircase where I could observe the crowd from above. I started focusing on the sea of turbans below, one of the distinctive items of dress in India. Here in the airport I noted an amazing array of colors. I saw turbans in gold, magenta, salmon, lilac, tan, cream, peach, seafoam, burgundy, rust, orange, sage, wine, forest greet, black, navy, gray, white, periwinkle, butter yellow, peridot, cornflower blue, and chartreuse.

Solid colored or print, giant, small, tall, simply or elaborately wrapped, turbans are an important part of the culture in Rajasthan worn by men throughout the state. There is a tremendous amount of variation, depending on familial affiliation, religion, region, season, occupation, and occasion. The fabric is typically a pure soft cotton dyed in a variety of colorful shades. The length of the cloth varies but is typically between 20 and 36 feet long and. 9 to 12 inches wide. Male members of the Sikh religion always wear a turban, keeping their long, uncut hair from view.

In India visitors will find constant visual displays of incongruity when tradition meets "progress" and ancient meets modern. During initial visits I always did a double-take when I saw turbaned men in the countryside riding motor scooters. It seems so, well, incongruous. Now it seems perfectly normal.

An interesting albeit slightly dusty turban museum can be found at Surabhi's restaurant in Jaipur. It's a wonderful, pillared heritage property on Old Amer Road, with good quality food and a welcoming atmosphere. The owner has amassed quite a collection of Rajasthani headgear with detailed descriptions about each style.

If you're predisposed to purchasing a turban but are intimidated by tying it, don't despair. There are ready-to-wear turbans available for different head sizes. Go on, try one on for size.

# 6 Shirodhara Oil Treatments

After 36 hours traveling by car, shuttle, plane, and foot, I typically arrive in Delhi excited but frazzled and exhausted. Within the first couple of days I have two goals: nourish my body with a chili-packed masala omelet and piping hot chapatis, and calm my nerves with a shirodhara treatment.

Shirodhara (aka sirodhara) is an Ayurvedic treatment that involves a steady stream of hot, warm oil slowly poured onto the third eye, located in the center of the forehead. If you're new to Ayurvedic medicine, simply put, it is a 5,000-year-old system of health care originating in India that recognizes the elements of ether, air, fire, water and earth, which manifest into three specific "doshas" or body types.

Shirodhara is meant to bring psychological and spiritual balance, and heal a plethora of ills, including stress, mental tension, headaches and insomnia. All I know is I feel like a new woman afterwards. A head massage and warm oil equals bliss. I drift in and out of dreamlike state, totally relaxed state.

There are numerous places in India to experience Shirodhara, whether it's a luxury hotel, resort in Kerala, or a local beauty establishment. One of my favorites in Jaipur is Kerala Ayurveda Kendra. In Kerala I like the Isola Di Cocco Ayurvedic Heritage Beach Resort . The way to bliss is just an apointment away.

P.S. The best way to get the oil out of your hair afterwards is to apply shampoo FIRST. Work it through your hair well before wetting it.

Image: Oil and herbs are heated up for shirodhara treatment at The Baagh in Kahna. www.thebaagh.com

# 5 Flower Markets

I'm sure the flower industry in India is big business. Flower markets are everywhere, filled with golden colored marigolds, heavenly smelling tuberose, and Indian roses that have the quintessentially perfect rose scent. Flowers play a prominent role in the Indian culture and are used for festivals, weddings, and other auspicious occasions. Hindu deities are often the recipients of marigold and rose garlands, given to them by devotees during prayers. In the south, women wear sprays of jasmine in their glossy black hair. I have stayed at nice (and really nice) hotels where flower petals are strewn on the bed, in the bathtub, and even in the toilet.

The flower market in Jaipur is one of my favorite places to visit. Rows of sellers sit cross-legged patiently stringing together colorful garlands. Since hot weather is devastating to the delicate buds, vendors keep big blocks of ice in wicker baskets to keep the petals cool. Sellers often offer a fragrant blossom or two as you walk through. A garland of roses is a mere 30 rupees or less (about 60 cents). Buy one for yourself, a friend, or as an offering to your favorite god.

# 4 Fresh, Hot Jalebis

Imagine a crispy old-fashioned donut soaked in syrup and you'll have an inkling of what a jalebi tastes like. I have had these uber-sweet, deep fried treats before, but a friend in Delhi insisted she knew where the best ones were. She took me to the Jalebiwala in Chandni Chowk on Dariba Corner. "These are made in pure ghee," she assured me.

We watched as the jalebi wallah masterfully squeezed a pastry bag and formed whorls of batter in the hot oil. He tended them until they were perfectly orange, and perfectly crisp. With a deft hand, he lifted piles of the spiraled sweets out of the oil and placed them in a syrupy bath. Finally ready, he served them to us on a tiny paper plates.

I crunched down on the warm jalebi. It was the best jalebi I've had—so far.

# 3 Hari Mahal Palace

I felt like a princess laying in the four-poster canopied bed in my spacious suite, with vast marble and tile bathroom and private dressing area. In reality, I was a guest staying in one of the suites at http://www.harimahalpalace.com/, a heritage hotel in Jaipur. I sat and enjoyed a cup of coffee in the sitting area with a view of an old-fashioned tiled fireplace (though more for ambiance than function).

Visitors looking for traditional Rajasthani atmosphere will love this grand, yet intimate hotel. Foyers and sitting rooms are antique-filled with exotic portraits of maharajas and other royals. The staff is kind and attentive. Breakfast is served in a delightful open air courtyard, which is also a great place for sipping a Kingfisher beer in the early evening. Guests who have had their fill of the intense Indian sunshine can swim comfortably in the enclosed pool. My preference was to sit on one of the pretty wrought iron benches on the expansive lawn and watch the birds. At night the palace entrance is romantically lit. Dine indoors or out (make sure you slather on the mosquito repellant if you prefer the latter).

For a change of scenery, you can walk right next door to the Spice Court restaurant or go shopping in the small nearby complex. Look for Cottons, a boutique that carries pretty block-print scarves and kurta tops. I always have room in my bag for one more scarf...

Book ahead if you plan to stay—there are only five heritage suites and 6 royal suites. Rooms start at about $135.

Oh, and if you see the owner, Dr. B.P. Singh, say hello. He's an interesting man and a Germplasm expert (as in seeds and plants, not germs).

# 2 Chai Wallahs

Spicy, warm, and sweet, chai hits the spot even on warm days in India. Making good cup of chai, a combination of tea, spices, and milk, is truly an art. chai wallahs (people who make tea) expertly turn out hundreds of cups a day.

Chai seems to magically appear from nowhere. One chilly morning I was bird watching and was mesmerized by a tree loaded with fruit bats. A chai wallah approached. It was a chilly morning and he served the chai in a small, handmade clay cup. The tea was warm and delicious and I could taste the earthy clay on my lips. I discarded the cup on the ground as instructed. The tiny shards would return to the earth from whence they came. Much better than the plastic cups now gaining in popularity.

The sweetest chai I ever had was in a village on my way to the Chambal river near Sawai Madhopur. The predominant ingredient in this cup of tea was by far the sugar. The young chai wallah possessed a winning smile and an ample belly—surely the recipient of many of his own cups of chai.

# 1 Indian Rollers

According to the "Birds of Northern India" by Richard Grimmett and Tim Inskipp, there are more than 1,000 species of birds in India. In my opinion, one of the most beautiful is the Indian Roller. My first sighting was in Pushkar in Rajasthan.

I was sitting on the lawn of a guest house when the bird streaked across the sky flashing electric blue, bright turquoise, and warm brown plumage. I startled my travel companion with a cry of amazement. I thought it was the most exotic, exciting bird I've ever seen. Our guide, Rennu, told me it was probably the "Bird of God." I've since come to know it as the Indian Roller, aka Blue Throat, aka Bird of Shiva (one of the Indian Gods).

Since then, I've seen this gorgeous, yet common bird many times. They're actually quite easy to spot perched on wires in the open countryside, especially in Northern India. I'm told it's considered auspicious to spot an Indian Roller first thing in the morning. I'm happy to see them at any time.

A Billion Reasons

Bangle makers. Sweet lime juice. Tigers. Temples. Camel treks. The Taj Mahal. Chili Peppers. Classical dancers. Backwater boat trips. Painted pachyderms. Tropical beaches. I could go on and on. And I will, as I share my discoveries and observations while traveling throuh India.

After several trips in the last two years, I'm more than a little obsessed and enthralled with the country and its people. The current population of India numbers more than a billion people. Their creations, customs, and culture, along with diverse geography and available activities all add up to millions, if not a billion, reasons to visit.

Hopefully, I'll inspire you in some small way to come and visit India. It really is incredible.