# 14 Rambagh Palace

I was sad to read in the newspaper that the legendary Maharani of Jaipur, Gayatri Devi, passed away on July 29 at the age of 90. She was an icon of India's former princely states, renowned for her beauty, charm, and eventually her devotion to education for women and a successful political career. With her death came the end of a reign rich in history, romance, and the allure of an early life of royal privilege.

The Maharani's former residence in Jaipur was Rambagh Palace, where she lived with Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II. In 1957 it was converted to a hotel. It remains a stunningly gorgeous heritage hotel to this day.

During my first trip to India I visited the palace, sat on the veranda sipping a kir royale and watched green parakeets fly overhead above the vast manicured lawns. It was magical. And very palatial. With a grand entrance, polished marble floors and corridors, fountains filled with rose petals, and portraits of royalty, it conjured up bygone days of royal activities and immense wealth.

At Rambagh Palace the service is stellar, and the amenities ample including spa, swimming pools, jewelry boutiques, and astrologer. If you truly want the royal treatment, opt to stay in the Maharani's suite. The Maharaja had it redecorated especially for her (she was, in fact, his third wife).

For more on the Maharani's fascinating life including her days at Rambagh Palace, read her autobiography, "A Princess Remembers." It will make your stay or visit to the Palace all the more memorable.

# 13 Tigers at Kanha

India is one of the few places left in the world where wild tigers still prowl, and Kanha National Park is renowned for the majestic cat. Approximately 130 wild tigers roam the preserve in the state of Madhya Pradesh an area that inspired Rudyard Kipling's classic, the "Jungle Book." At Kanha you'll most likely sight some of the other wild characters of Kipling's classic, from pythons to leopards.

During my visit last year I received a big thrill when a tigress emerged from the jungle and nonchalantly walked head-on toward our jeep. The whiskers on her nose were clearly visible. Her giant paws padded silently on the dusty road as her massive shoulders swayed gracefully. She was no more than 30 feet away. Our driver backed up. For 35 minutes we watched the tigress amble toward us. The driver continued driving in reverse. Eventually, the big cat veered off the road, walked up a hill and positioned herself behind a rock. Only her striped tail and the white back of one ear was visible. It had been an excellent sighting.

The legendary cats have had a tough go of it. Excessive hunting in the early 20th century was devastating to the tiger population and it wasn't until the 1970s that serious conservation programs were enforced. Though India has stepped up its efforts to protect tigers, numbers continue to dwindle. Tiger counts are alarmingly low, numbering around 1,400 according to a February 2008 census.

Modern-day challenges to tiger populations include loss of habitat, encroachment of buffer zones, increased human population and poaching. Public awareness among residents and visitors aids in supporting the government's efforts. Today, Kanha is one of 28 tiger reserves in India dedicated to preserving natural resources, wildlife, and the tiger. In my opinion, there's no time like the present to see these amazing beasts in the wild.

Though tigers may be the star attraction at the 750-square mile park, the jungle itself is indeed beautiful. It has an earthy scent that's deep, fruity, and fermented. Towering sal trees with mottled trunks provide cover to tigers, leopards, jackal, wild boar, and monkeys. Termite "castles" made of reddish brown earth stand three and four feet high. Shaggy Indian bison graze near ponds, and steel-hued blue bulls graze in forested areas. Hundreds of bird species live or migrate through the park. Visitors can rent gypsies (jeeps) with drivers and a naturalist guide for morning and afternoon drives.

Tiger image by Santanu Banik, Frozen for Eternity

Copyright image used by permission.

# 12 Henna

During one trip to India I took a group of women travelers for henna at a small market in New Delhi. The henna artists, armed with portfolios of their handiwork, descended on their eager clients flipping through pages filled with designs for hands, feet, forearms, ankles, calves. Once a design was selected, the artists worked quickly with deft hands, creating flowers, paisleys, and swirly decorations on various body parts.

Henna (also known as Mehndi) has been used for thousands of years. Leaves from the henna plant (Lawsonia inermis) are ground into a paste which dyes the skin. Henna artists squeeze the greenish-black paste through a cone onto the skin creating elaborate patterns. The dark paste dries, cracks and crumbles off leaving a reddish-brown design which can last up to a couple of weeks. Women in India wear henna for special occasions and celebrations. Brides are decorated with special designs on their hands and feet.

The women travelers were happy and impressed with their new body art—but no less so than the artists were impressed with Autumn's tattoos, one of the women in our group. Autumn's elaborate tattoos covered much of her neck, chest, and arms. Fortunately, the henna artists found a blank canvass on her feet.

# 11 Men Who Wear Color

People often ask me what it is I like about India. Among many things, it's the color that stands out—literally. Eye-popping pinks, lime green, rich reds, glowing oranges. Bright hues are everywhere from the neon orange of Lord Ganesha to women in fuchsia saris.

But it's not just women who wear gaily colored clothing. You'll see men stepping outside the color box into lavender long sleeve button downs, kelly green golf shirts and turquoise kurtas. It's refreshing coming from Seattle, land of neutral toned chino trousers and sedate shirts. My favorite color combo to date was a young man wearing orange pants and a purple shirt. It was a surefire attention-getter.

# 10 Tuk Tuks

Motoring through crowded streets in auto rickshaws (aka tuk tuks), is my favorite mode of transportation in India. They are loud. They are subject to the wind and rain. They miraculously come within millimeters of pedestrians, cows, scooters, bikes, and other auto rickshaws. And they are fun as hell.

The three-wheeled vehicles are covered but door-less. With a two-stroke engine and handlebar controls, it's similar to a ride at Disneyland, albeit without the circular track to nowhere. Unlike a sanitized, elevated ride in an air-conditioned four-wheel drive tourist vehicle, tuk tuks are the best mode of transport for a close-up look at daily life. You'll whiz past vegetable markets and get a whiff of ripe bananas, hear locals haggle over goods, and get a birds eye view of monkey shenanigans on the roadside.

Tuk tuks are inexpensive rides compared to taxis or hired cars and quite comfortable forms of transportation for two or three people. However, it's not uncommon to see riders crammed within the small confines of the cab, limbs akimbo and protruding from the vehicle.

Some tuk tuk drivers show pride of ownership. They cover the seats with fancy fabrics or colored Naugahyde, embellish them with stitched-in heart shapes, trim them in fringe and tassels, and decorate them with deities.

Auto rickshaws are used throughout India but rules vary regarding fares. In some areas the meters are working, running and required. In others, meters are often "broken", so you must use your bargaining skills.

If you're on an organized tour, don't deprive yourself of this experience. If you're on business consider hiring a tuk tuk driver for the day. Just negotiate in advance.

Tuk Tuk Tips

• Ask the hotel where you're staying what a ride should cost from point A to B. If you're already out flagging down a tuk tuk,, think half of the quoted price and go from there. Always establish a price in advance.
• Don't assume a driver knows where your destination is. The driver may be from a different state or village and driving his auto rickshaw in an adopted city. I once tried going to an early morning yoga class with map and address in hand only to be dropped off in the middle of, well, I don't know where it was. It took two more tuk tuk rides before I found the yoga class.
• Bring a map and point out your destination if the driver is unfamiliar with its location.
• Use common sense. A fellow traveler was adamant about paying a fair, non-tourist price. The driver asked for 80 rupees. She insisted the quoted fare (approximately $1.75) was too much. Perhaps. Well, probably. But there were no other tuk tuks in sight on this long stretch of road. The driver spoke good English and clearly knew the location of our chosen destination. That, in my book, was worth the extra 50 cents he was charging.
• I sometimes walk to where the tuk tuk drivers congregate. I look for drivers whose vehicles are neat and clean and speak English since my Hindi is limited. It's more efficient for both of us.
• If a driver insists on taking you to a friend's, uncle or cousin's shop, insist on getting to your desired destination. Chances are, they are taking you to a shop where prices will be high due to their commission.
• Drivers work hard and work long hours. Tips are appreciated.
  
  For the Adventurous
  You don't have to take a back seat in these crazy little motorized contraptions. Consider driving your own tuk tuk for the Rickshaw Challenge. This "amazing race for the clinically insane" has an outlined route that traverses across several microclimates, and through suburban, country, and city roads. July 31 through August 13, 2009.
  

# 9 The Baagh Resort At Kanha

After a hard day of searching for tigers in the jungles of Kanha, I looked forward to getting back to The Baagh, a beautiful resort near the animal park. As a matter of fact, it is such an inviting property, there were times when I skipped a day of tiger tracking to enjoy the accommodations and grounds of this jungle oasis.

The Baagh is a harmonious blend of tradition and modern conveniences. The reception area is the original farmhouse and painted a bright turquoise, like the surrounding villager's homes. The rooms offer all the creature comforts away from the jungle creatures—spacious areas, gorgeous marble baths, and tasteful teakwood furniture are found in each of the 24 cottages and town homes.

Each room has a romantic view of the Indian countryside with a porch or balcony, perfect for watching the sunrise with chai in hand. The lush grounds are populated with mango and papaya trees and flora that attracts a host of birds and butterflies.

The restaurant and bar are rustically elegant with teakwood furnishings. One of my favorite spots to contemplate life (or at least the lepidoptera) was the large wrap-around deck which offered serene countryside views. It's a relaxing spot for a glass of wine or a spot of tea.


Fabulous food is obviously a priority of the owners. The resident chef prepares regional culinary delights from magnificent soups (after a cool morning safari drive) to perfectly spiced vegetarian dishes and savory seafood courses. Many of the ingredients come from the organic garden.

The resort isn't so fussy that you don't feel like you're in the Indian countryside. It's surrounded by tribal villages. During one walk to the villages I watched as locals built their homes with a mixture of cow dung and straw. As usual, I was amazed at the strength of the women, hefting the heavy, wet mixtures atop their heads. Their biceps are buff—no need to go to the gym.

The Baagh also gets points for being eco-conscious. They use solar power, reclaimed lumber, and harvest water by traditional methods for the gardens and to attract migratory and local birds. They also hire local villagers.

If you're lucky, Colonel Singh will be on the premises. One of the owners, he is thoughtful and knowledgeable about Indian culture, history, customs, wildlife, current state of affairs, and much more. Just ask.

Make sure you indulge in a stress-reducing Ayurvedic treatment in a traditional setting while you're there. The spa is housed in one of the original farmhouse buildings. A swimming pool has been added since my visit. I'm looking forward to a dip in it on my next trip.

# 8 The Maharaja of Jodhpur

I have to admit, I'm a little in awe of Indian royalty. To me, they are living reminders of India’s illustrious past and exciting future. My first glimpse of royalty was at Rambagh Palace in Jaipur. I spotted the Maharani of Jaipur, who, along with her humanitarian and political accomplishments, was a stunning beauty in her day. At 87 years old, she was still statuesque and regal in her sky blue sari.

Last week I had the honor of meeting and interviewing the Maharaja of Jodhpur right here in Seattle. Maharaja Gaj Singh II was here to speak at the Seattle Asian Art Museum's Garden & Cosmos exhibition featuring more than 50 paintings originally from the royal collection. Chosen from more than 3,000 pieces, these little known but magnificent works of art from the 17th to the 19th century vividly depict the celebrations and pleasures of palace life, rituals of the gods, and portrayals of the cosmos.

The exhibit of primarily miniature paintings speaks volumes in all of its minute detail and vibrant color. "People have gotten into the spirit of the pictures. They conjure up the whole of India, its philosophy and art," said the Maharaja of the exhibit. Seattle is indeed lucky to host this exhibit and it wouldn't have happened without the direct involvement of the Maharaja.

While the Maharaja's background would allow him the option of resting on his laurels, he has, in fact, done the extreme opposite. His work includes preserving and promoting the arts and culture of India, maintaining and opening heritage properties and monuments to the public, work in areas of social responsibility such as empowering women through education and special projects, rehabilitating military personnel, water conservation efforts, and much more.

The Maharaja's lack of pretense and eagerness to share his ancestral link to India's culture and traditions was refreshing. During a tour of the artworks the Maharaja pointed out a detail in one painting, that of Man Singh's Coronation on January 19, 1804. In the piece, the ceremonial marble platform at the Mehrangarh Fort is the exact same one where the Maharaja himself was annointed at the tender age of four years old after the untimely death of his father. I asked the Maharaja if he remembered much of the historic moment. "I remember all the men. I had never been around so many men before," he said.

Later in the week I attended a lecture by the Maharaja. To a packed hall, he explained how the influence of his ancestors inspired him to lead through the changing times of the maharajas, especially during the "de-recognition" of the role of royal families. He saw then, and still sees his responsibility to the people. "A maharaja rules and pleases. My destiny has bound me to my heritage and the people of Jodhpur." This is evident through his works.

Maharaja Gaj Singh is one of the billions of reasons to visit India. It's clear he cares passionately about all that is precious in his country and has worked hard to maintain for future generations of residents and visitors alike. "There is so much we need to preserve and protect," said the Maharaja.

For more on the Maharaja of Jodhpur

# 7 Turbans

I was waiting at the airport in Delhi for some friends. The flight was late, the wait was long. I sat on a staircase where I could observe the crowd from above. I started focusing on the sea of turbans below, one of the distinctive items of dress in India. Here in the airport I noted an amazing array of colors. I saw turbans in gold, magenta, salmon, lilac, tan, cream, peach, seafoam, burgundy, rust, orange, sage, wine, forest greet, black, navy, gray, white, periwinkle, butter yellow, peridot, cornflower blue, and chartreuse.

Solid colored or print, giant, small, tall, simply or elaborately wrapped, turbans are an important part of the culture in Rajasthan worn by men throughout the state. There is a tremendous amount of variation, depending on familial affiliation, religion, region, season, occupation, and occasion. The fabric is typically a pure soft cotton dyed in a variety of colorful shades. The length of the cloth varies but is typically between 20 and 36 feet long and. 9 to 12 inches wide. Male members of the Sikh religion always wear a turban, keeping their long, uncut hair from view.

In India visitors will find constant visual displays of incongruity when tradition meets "progress" and ancient meets modern. During initial visits I always did a double-take when I saw turbaned men in the countryside riding motor scooters. It seems so, well, incongruous. Now it seems perfectly normal.

An interesting albeit slightly dusty turban museum can be found at Surabhi's restaurant in Jaipur. It's a wonderful, pillared heritage property on Old Amer Road, with good quality food and a welcoming atmosphere. The owner has amassed quite a collection of Rajasthani headgear with detailed descriptions about each style.

If you're predisposed to purchasing a turban but are intimidated by tying it, don't despair. There are ready-to-wear turbans available for different head sizes. Go on, try one on for size.

# 6 Shirodhara Oil Treatments

After 36 hours traveling by car, shuttle, plane, and foot, I typically arrive in Delhi excited but frazzled and exhausted. Within the first couple of days I have two goals: nourish my body with a chili-packed masala omelet and piping hot chapatis, and calm my nerves with a shirodhara treatment.

Shirodhara (aka sirodhara) is an Ayurvedic treatment that involves a steady stream of hot, warm oil slowly poured onto the third eye, located in the center of the forehead. If you're new to Ayurvedic medicine, simply put, it is a 5,000-year-old system of health care originating in India that recognizes the elements of ether, air, fire, water and earth, which manifest into three specific "doshas" or body types.

Shirodhara is meant to bring psychological and spiritual balance, and heal a plethora of ills, including stress, mental tension, headaches and insomnia. All I know is I feel like a new woman afterwards. A head massage and warm oil equals bliss. I drift in and out of dreamlike state, totally relaxed state.

There are numerous places in India to experience Shirodhara, whether it's a luxury hotel, resort in Kerala, or a local beauty establishment. One of my favorites in Jaipur is Kerala Ayurveda Kendra. In Kerala I like the Isola Di Cocco Ayurvedic Heritage Beach Resort . The way to bliss is just an apointment away.

P.S. The best way to get the oil out of your hair afterwards is to apply shampoo FIRST. Work it through your hair well before wetting it.

Image: Oil and herbs are heated up for shirodhara treatment at The Baagh in Kahna. www.thebaagh.com

# 5 Flower Markets

I'm sure the flower industry in India is big business. Flower markets are everywhere, filled with golden colored marigolds, heavenly smelling tuberose, and Indian roses that have the quintessentially perfect rose scent. Flowers play a prominent role in the Indian culture and are used for festivals, weddings, and other auspicious occasions. Hindu deities are often the recipients of marigold and rose garlands, given to them by devotees during prayers. In the south, women wear sprays of jasmine in their glossy black hair. I have stayed at nice (and really nice) hotels where flower petals are strewn on the bed, in the bathtub, and even in the toilet.

The flower market in Jaipur is one of my favorite places to visit. Rows of sellers sit cross-legged patiently stringing together colorful garlands. Since hot weather is devastating to the delicate buds, vendors keep big blocks of ice in wicker baskets to keep the petals cool. Sellers often offer a fragrant blossom or two as you walk through. A garland of roses is a mere 30 rupees or less (about 60 cents). Buy one for yourself, a friend, or as an offering to your favorite god.

# 4 Fresh, Hot Jalebis

Imagine a crispy old-fashioned donut soaked in syrup and you'll have an inkling of what a jalebi tastes like. I have had these uber-sweet, deep fried treats before, but a friend in Delhi insisted she knew where the best ones were. She took me to the Jalebiwala in Chandni Chowk on Dariba Corner. "These are made in pure ghee," she assured me.

We watched as the jalebi wallah masterfully squeezed a pastry bag and formed whorls of batter in the hot oil. He tended them until they were perfectly orange, and perfectly crisp. With a deft hand, he lifted piles of the spiraled sweets out of the oil and placed them in a syrupy bath. Finally ready, he served them to us on a tiny paper plates.

I crunched down on the warm jalebi. It was the best jalebi I've had—so far.

# 3 Hari Mahal Palace

I felt like a princess laying in the four-poster canopied bed in my spacious suite, with vast marble and tile bathroom and private dressing area. In reality, I was a guest staying in one of the suites at http://www.harimahalpalace.com/, a heritage hotel in Jaipur. I sat and enjoyed a cup of coffee in the sitting area with a view of an old-fashioned tiled fireplace (though more for ambiance than function).

Visitors looking for traditional Rajasthani atmosphere will love this grand, yet intimate hotel. Foyers and sitting rooms are antique-filled with exotic portraits of maharajas and other royals. The staff is kind and attentive. Breakfast is served in a delightful open air courtyard, which is also a great place for sipping a Kingfisher beer in the early evening. Guests who have had their fill of the intense Indian sunshine can swim comfortably in the enclosed pool. My preference was to sit on one of the pretty wrought iron benches on the expansive lawn and watch the birds. At night the palace entrance is romantically lit. Dine indoors or out (make sure you slather on the mosquito repellant if you prefer the latter).

For a change of scenery, you can walk right next door to the Spice Court restaurant or go shopping in the small nearby complex. Look for Cottons, a boutique that carries pretty block-print scarves and kurta tops. I always have room in my bag for one more scarf...

Book ahead if you plan to stay—there are only five heritage suites and 6 royal suites. Rooms start at about $135.

Oh, and if you see the owner, Dr. B.P. Singh, say hello. He's an interesting man and a Germplasm expert (as in seeds and plants, not germs).

# 2 Chai Wallahs

Spicy, warm, and sweet, chai hits the spot even on warm days in India. Making good cup of chai, a combination of tea, spices, and milk, is truly an art. chai wallahs (people who make tea) expertly turn out hundreds of cups a day.

Chai seems to magically appear from nowhere. One chilly morning I was bird watching and was mesmerized by a tree loaded with fruit bats. A chai wallah approached. It was a chilly morning and he served the chai in a small, handmade clay cup. The tea was warm and delicious and I could taste the earthy clay on my lips. I discarded the cup on the ground as instructed. The tiny shards would return to the earth from whence they came. Much better than the plastic cups now gaining in popularity.

The sweetest chai I ever had was in a village on my way to the Chambal river near Sawai Madhopur. The predominant ingredient in this cup of tea was by far the sugar. The young chai wallah possessed a winning smile and an ample belly—surely the recipient of many of his own cups of chai.

# 1 Indian Rollers

According to the "Birds of Northern India" by Richard Grimmett and Tim Inskipp, there are more than 1,000 species of birds in India. In my opinion, one of the most beautiful is the Indian Roller. My first sighting was in Pushkar in Rajasthan.

I was sitting on the lawn of a guest house when the bird streaked across the sky flashing electric blue, bright turquoise, and warm brown plumage. I startled my travel companion with a cry of amazement. I thought it was the most exotic, exciting bird I've ever seen. Our guide, Rennu, told me it was probably the "Bird of God." I've since come to know it as the Indian Roller, aka Blue Throat, aka Bird of Shiva (one of the Indian Gods).

Since then, I've seen this gorgeous, yet common bird many times. They're actually quite easy to spot perched on wires in the open countryside, especially in Northern India. I'm told it's considered auspicious to spot an Indian Roller first thing in the morning. I'm happy to see them at any time.

A Billion Reasons

Bangle makers. Sweet lime juice. Tigers. Temples. Camel treks. The Taj Mahal. Chili Peppers. Classical dancers. Backwater boat trips. Painted pachyderms. Tropical beaches. I could go on and on. And I will, as I share my discoveries and observations while traveling throuh India.

After several trips in the last two years, I'm more than a little obsessed and enthralled with the country and its people. The current population of India numbers more than a billion people. Their creations, customs, and culture, along with diverse geography and available activities all add up to millions, if not a billion, reasons to visit.

Hopefully, I'll inspire you in some small way to come and visit India. It really is incredible.