# 16 Sloth Bear Rescue

During a recent trip to Soor Sarvora bird sanctuary in Agra I came upon the Sloth Bear Rescue, a program supported by the non-profit Wildlife S.O.S of India. The preserve was closed to visitors without a reservation, but a guard kindly summoned one of the resident biologists who gave me a tour of the facility.

Just inside the park, a furry sloth bear lumbered up to the chain-link fence of the enclosure and sniffed. "They're each given new names when they arrive at the sanctuary," the biologist said. All of the bears in the park have been rescued from miserable lives as dancing bears.

For generations, Kalandar gypsy tribes have captured young bears soon after birth, often killing the mother in the process. The bears are then trained to "dance" for entertainment, tourists, and photo opportunities. The process to convert them to lives in captivity is brutal. Their teeth are pulled, claws chopped off and sensitive muzzles pierced for ropes just 4 feet in length. It was two years ago I saw a billboard admonishing, "Just Say No to Dancing Bears" with a picture of a sloth bear performing. This public education is essential.

The good news is the efforts of this organization have resulted in more that 480 rescued and rehabilitated bears since 2002. Through the program, "owners" are paid $1,000 to peacefully surrender the bear and are also given $1,000 worth of training and educational opportunities for themselves and their families.

Individuals are trained in areas such as driving, welding, tailoring, embroidery, and helping to set up shops and small businesses. The group also provides accessible education for children and health care clinics.

Sloth Bear Rescue has opened several sanctuaries in India and continues to conserve and protect the species by acquiring land, protecting habitat and curtailing poaching. For $45 a month, you can sponsor a bear where they are free to roam, play, interact with other bears and live life in a safe environment.

The View from Marine Palace Restaurant

The view from the Marine Palace Restaurant in Varkala, Kerala is ever-changing. During my recent visit I spent hours drinking tea and fresh juices while watching the beach scene just steps below the cafe. On the shores of the Arabian Sea, fishermen empty their nets of shiny-skinned fish, westerners tan their browning hides, and locals worship ancestors on the holy beach before at sacred ocean waters. Wildlife lovers can spot white-bellied sea eagles and other birds of prey swooping down toward the fishermen's catch and schools of dolphin arcing from the sea.

Its such a comfy spot—a breeze blows through the outdoor restaurant, the palm thatched roof shades patrons from the strong Keralan sun and the sandy floor is cool on the feet. At night festive colored lights wind up teakwood columns and dangle from cashew nut tree branches.

And the food? It's tasty, inexpensive, copious and very fresh. One late afternoon I sipped a tall glass of watermelon juice and watched as two men rushed through the cafe struggling with a 90 pound marlin. They carried it down the steps and hoisted it onto the beachfront grill. Then they piled on tuna, butter fish, snapper, barracuda, giant prawns, and other fresh-caught fruits de mer for the evening dinner.

The restaurant is located on the grounds of the intimate Marine Palace Hotel that offers 14 rooms. Stay at one of the newly built Keralan style cottages featuring front and back verandas . The staff is sweet and owner Sudharji Bhasker is charming and accommodating.