After a hard day of searching for tigers in the jungles of Kanha, I looked forward to getting back to The Baagh, a beautiful resort near the animal park. As a matter of fact, it is such an inviting property, there were times when I skipped a day of tiger tracking to enjoy the accommodations and grounds of this jungle oasis.
The Baagh is a harmonious blend of tradition and modern conveniences. The reception area is the original farmhouse and painted a bright turquoise, like the surrounding villager's homes. The rooms offer all the creature comforts away from the jungle creatures—spacious areas, gorgeous marble baths, and tasteful teakwood furniture are found in each of the 24 cottages and town homes.
Each room has a romantic view of the Indian countryside with a porch or balcony, perfect for watching the sunrise with chai in hand. The lush grounds are populated with mango and papaya trees and flora that attracts a host of birds and butterflies.
The restaurant and bar are rustically elegant with teakwood furnishings. One of my favorite spots to contemplate life (or at least the lepidoptera) was the large wrap-around deck which offered serene countryside views. It's a relaxing spot for a glass of wine or a spot of tea.
Fabulous food is obviously a priority of the owners. The resident chef prepares regional culinary delights from magnificent soups (after a cool morning safari drive) to perfectly spiced vegetarian dishes and savory seafood courses. Many of the ingredients come from the organic garden.
The resort isn't so fussy that you don't feel like you're in the Indian countryside. It's surrounded by tribal villages. During one walk to the villages I watched as locals built their homes with a mixture of cow dung and straw. As usual, I was amazed at the strength of the women, hefting the heavy, wet mixtures atop their heads. Their biceps are buff—no need to go to the gym.
The Baagh also gets points for being eco-conscious. They use solar power, reclaimed lumber, and harvest water by traditional methods for the gardens and to attract migratory and local birds. They also hire local villagers.
If you're lucky, Colonel Singh will be on the premises. One of the owners, he is thoughtful and knowledgeable about Indian culture, history, customs, wildlife, current state of affairs, and much more. Just ask.
Make sure you indulge in a stress-reducing Ayurvedic treatment in a traditional setting while you're there. The spa is housed in one of the original farmhouse buildings. A swimming pool has been added since my visit. I'm looking forward to a dip in it on my next trip.
